Korean Lash Lift
- Can I perform a Korean Lash Lift on everyone?
In short, yes! While the Korean, Freestyle, and Adhesive-Free techniques are versatile and suitable for a wide range of lash types, it’s crucial to assess each client first.
Clients with extremely watery eyes, severe skin sensitivities, or very fragile lashes may not be good candidates for some techniques and more suited to others. Beyond contraindications, you’ll want to choose the method based on lash density, direction, and texture. For example, coarse downward lashes often respond better to the Korean method, while fragile or overprocessed lashes may benefit from the gentler Freestyle approach. - When is it best to implement these techniques?
The Korean method is particularly useful when working on lashes that grow downward, are coarse, or have proven resistant to traditional lash lifts. Freestyle and Adhesive-Free methods shine when you need more control with less tension on the lashes, especially on fragile or previously treated lashes. Essentially, the best time to use these techniques is when traditional wrapping feels too difficult or when you want more precision and flexibility in lash direction.
- Is there a difference between Freestyle and Korean?
Yes, they differ significantly.
Freestyle starts with Lotion 1 applied while the lashes are relaxed downward on the under-eye pad or reverse shield. This softens the lashes before wrapping, which reduces resistance when you reposition them. It’s a gentler and often quicker method, ideal for delicate or curly lashes.
Korean begins with lashes swept upward onto a flat shield. Lotion 1 (thickened with viscosity controller) is applied in this position, so the lashes soften while already stretched upward. This gives you more control and a stronger lift, especially on stubborn or downward lashes, but requires more precision and persistence. - What does the viscosity controller do?
A viscosity controller thickens your lotions so they stay exactly where you place them. This gives you more control during application, reduces the risk of product migration into the eye area, and helps the lashes stay in position without needing as much adhesive. It’s especially important in Korean and Adhesive-Free techniques, where adhesive use is minimal or avoided.
- What is the viscosity controller made out of?
Most cosmetic-grade viscosity controllers, like Elleemix Powder, are made from a combination of safe ingredients such as corn starch (Zea Mays), Hydroxyethyl Acrylate (for a smooth, gel-like consistency), Sodium Hyaluronate (for hydration), Polyvinyl Alcohol (for tackiness and hold), and plant oils for nourishment. Some may also contain Titanium Dioxide for even application and Sodium Benzoate as a preservative. These ingredients make the mixture safe, stable, and effective.
- Does the Viscosity controller impact the processing times?
Yes, it can. Adding a viscosity controller reduces the water content in the lotion, which can slightly slow down absorption and how fast the molecules travel within the lash performing their job. This means you may need to extend processing times, depending on lash thickness and system used. The thicker the mix, the slower the active ingredients penetrate. That’s why it’s important to do flex checks during processing rather than relying solely on the timer.
- Do I need a viscosity controller, or can I apply this method without one?
For the Korean method, a viscosity controller is strongly recommended. Without it, the lotion may slip, migrate, or fail to hold lashes in place, which can compromise the lift. However, for Freestyle, you can often work without one—especially if you’re using barrier tape or silicone pads to control product placement. It comes down to the method, the lash type, and your level of control.
- How do I purchase these products for my salon?
Elleemix Powder and compatible systems like Elleeplex Profusion can be purchased directly through Elleebana’s website or through official distributors worldwide. Always source from approved suppliers to ensure product authenticity and safe use.
- What is the best product to use to apply this method?
The Korean and Adhesive-Free methods work best with Elleeplex Profusion Lift and Set lotions, combined with Elleemix Powder. Flat shields (for Korean) or flex shields/hybrids (for Adhesive-Free) give the best control and optimal lift. For Freestyle, Profusion is still recommended because of its gentler, cysteamine-based formula however, One Shot can be used with extreme control and precision.
- How do I know the lashes are ready to remove Lotion 1?
Use a flex and comb check. Gently bend a lash, If it bends easily into a V-shape and feels soft and pliable without springing back, the bonds have broken down enough and you’re ready to remove Lotion 1. If the lash resists or only curves slightly (C-shape), it needs more time.
- Is there glue/adhesive used with this method?
Not always. In the Korean method, a viscosity controller often replaces the need for traditional adhesive in Step 1, though some artists may still use balm for initial positioning. Freestyle typically avoids adhesive altogether until Step 2, where balm can help secure the wrap. Adhesive is optional depending on the client’s lashes texture.
- Why is the term Glueless used?
Because these methods often avoid traditional lash lift adhesives, especially in Step 1. Instead, viscosity controllers, cling film, or balm are used to secure the lashes. It doesn’t mean absolutely no adhesive-like product is ever used—it just means you’re not relying on conventional glue for the main wrap.
- How long does it take, and how should price it?
The Korean method is not quicker — it can even take longer due to the precision needed for lash placement, especially on thick or coarse lashes. The focus is on control and quality, not speed.
Pricing should reflect the advanced skill involved, not just the time spent. Many salons charge $90–$130 AUD, with some going up to $150 for specialty services. Factor in your product costs before setting your price. - Is this a brand?
No. Korean Lash Lift, Freestyle, and Adhesive-Free are techniques, not brands. Elleebana makes products like Elleeplex Profusion and Elleemix Powder that work well with these methods, but the techniques themselves are not brands.
- Can you use One Shot for this technique?
It’s not recommended. The Korean method uses cling film and full root-to-tip lotion saturation, which don’t work well with TGA-based systems like One Shot — these can cause overprocessing. Elleeplex Profusion (CHC-based) is a safer choice.
- Do you have to use a viscosity controller?
For Korean, yes — it’s essential. For Freestyle, it’s optional but helpful. Adhesive-Free also benefits from it to keep lashes in place during Step 2.
- What’s the best way to get started?
Train with a certified educator, practise on different lash types, and use products that are compatible with the technique. Get comfortable with viscosity control, mixing ratios, and flex/set checks so you can adapt to each client confidently.
- Does it make the lashes longer?
No, the lashes don’t physically grow longer. However, by lifting them more strongly from the base and giving them a straighter upward direction, they can appear longer and more defined. Using nourishing systems like Regen can help to encourage healthier new hair growth.
- What are the benefits of using this technique?
Stronger base lift and cleaner results Better lash separation and direction control.
Improved outcomes for resistant or downward lashes Reduced risk of lash “drop” after treatment Versatility across a wide range of lash types. - Do the processing times change given there is no adhesive or balm during Step 1?
The base timings don’t change dramatically, but factors like adding a viscosity controller, cling film, or lash condition may alter how quickly the lashes process. Always use flex checks to guide you instead of relying only on the clock.
- What to do if lashes are very downward and don’t hold up on a flat shield for Korean techniques?
This is a common challenge with clients who have heavy or resistant lashes. Here’s how to manage it:
- Use a thicker mix of viscosity controller in your Step 1. This helps the lotion grip the lashes and hold them in place. Keep in mind this may affect processing times.
- Cling film can be applied over the lashes to press them into the shield and add gentle warmth, which improves processing and helps lashes stay put.
- Lift lockers or compensators can also be placed over the lashes for added security.
- Be patient with placement—these lashes often need more passes (sometimes 30–40) to sweep them up and get them to stay flat against the shield.
- Check shield size—choosing a slightly larger flat shield can make the wrapping process easier for lashes that are very resistant.
- Apply thickened step 1 to the lashes in their natural direction and let them processing for 2-5 minutes before attempting to wrap them and lay them flat on the flat shields.
- How to fix a flipped lid or reset curvature at the lash base?
A flipped lid happens when the shield hasn’t been laid flush to the eyelid, leaving a gap that alters lash direction. To correct this:
- Use a long-tipped micro swab to gently push the lid in toward the shield, correcting the flip while holding the shield in place.
- Rewrap carefully with minimal tension, focusing on guiding the lashes smoothly upward from the base without forcing them.
- Taking the time to reset the shield properly prevents uneven curls and ensures a clean, consistent lift.
- What if the client has lots of baby lashes or short lashes that don’t want to lay flat on the Korean flat shields?
Baby lashes and very short lashes can be stubborn, but there are ways to manage them:
- Choose a smaller shield size so the shorter lashes have less distance to travel, making it easier to secure them.
- Work in very small sections, isolating the shorter lashes and guiding them up carefully.
- If they still persist, cover the baby lashes with thickened lotion and cover the other lashes under the cling film. We can come back over later and secure them under the cling film once they have softened slightly.
- Cling film can be placed over the lashes to keep them secure while processing.
- Don’t force every baby lash up—if a few are extremely short, it’s sometimes better to leave them rather than risk breakage or awkward direction.
- What do I do if the lashes just don’t want to lay on a flat shield?
Some lashes—especially coarse or crisscrossed ones—are resistant to lying flat. In these cases:
- Check shield size—a larger flat shield or even switching to a traditionalshield may provide a better surface for the lash to grip that is less curvature.
- Reassess your product—make sure your Step 1 is thickened with a viscosity controller so it doesn’t slip.
- Work section by section, sweeping and pressing the lashes repeatedly with your tool until they begin to adhere.
- Cling film or can be applied to add gentle pressure and keep lashes in place during processing.
- Consider switching methods—if the lashes are highly resistant, you may achieve better results with the Freestyle technique, where the lashes are softened downward first before wrapping.